Catherine Schuller (right) travels around the country for CurveStyle teaching women about how to choose the right bra. Catherine will be featured in a video segment of Well Past 50, but until then she’s helping us out with some very useful information on a topic that still confounds women – especially those of us whose perky young breasts have headed Southward. Here's what she has to say about finding the right bra...
Finding the right size bra is not as easy as it sounds. Recent statistics prove that 80% of women are wearing the wrong size bra. Besides detracting from a flattering silhouette, wearing the wrong size bra is not conducive to good breast health. If a fit is too roomy, support suffers and chafing occurs, and if a fit is too tight, pinching, binding, skin denting and circulation problems can result.
It is recommended that breasts have “free time” from bras daily - preferably more than 12 hours of your day should be bra-free. Giving the breasts some restful, breathing space will first and foremost help the lymph flow within your breasts.
And, when choosing a bra, be fitted by a professional. Yes, you can do it yourself, but for the first few times, getting it done professionally is suggested, not just for the measuring process, but also for the formula for sizing.
What to know about getting a bra fitting:
The band size (or chest size) is the number part of your bra size. The cup size is the letter part. EX: if you are in a 38 C then 38 is the band circumference and C is the cup. Let someone measure you for the best accuracy.
A measurement CAN be done over the bra you are wearing AND over your T-shirt. Don't wear a thick shirt like a sweatshirt or sweater and avoid wearing a padded bra.
Try on different styles of bras. Every style fits and fills different and can "shape" your breast differently. Different styles also complement different outfits, especially the fabric that tops are made of.
Finding the band size:
Have someone measure around your chest with a tape measure, just under your breasts, and around the back. Make sure the tape measure rests flat on the skin and goes straight across your back. The industry standard dictates that bra band sizes are only even numbers (i.e., 34, 36, 38, 40, 42…). If the measured number results in an “odd” number, add 5 inches, if the number is even add 4 inches.
If you have large and/or sagging breasts, pull up on your bra's shoulder straps so that she can get the measuring tape under your breast for an accurate measurement. It’s important to get them up off your rib cage to get the true band size. Not all fittings will tell you the exact proper size, but it’s a way to start shopping and trying on so you are in the ball, er, “bra park.”
Finding the cup size:
Measuring the cup size is trickier; even with a measurement it is better to try on different bras and find out experimentally which one fits. Have someone measure you again, this time the measuring tape goes on top of the fullest part of your breasts. If you already own a well-fitting non-padded bra, you can wear it while taking this measurement as long as it doesn't 'flatten' your breasts (which would make an illusion of a smaller cup size). Record this number, and find the difference between that, and the band-size number. The difference tells you the correct cup size as follows:
Difference: (inches) negative < 1, 1", 2", 3", 4", 5", 6", 7"
Cup size: AAAA or AAA, AA, A, B,C,D, DD or E, DDD or F, DDDD or G.
Remember again, bra measuring is not exact science. And how could it be when women's breasts come in so many different shapes and sizes? Usually one breast is bigger than the other, they might sag, etc. So the fitting room tells you the truth; not the tape measure. You have to try the bra on. If it fits right, that's your bra size even if the tape measure told you different.
When you try the bra on, industry standard dictates that the second hook is the “true hook” to be fastened. Lean slightly forward, allow gravity to help the breast tissue to “fall into the cups” and slowly straighten your posture, putting the straps up on each shoulder as you do so. To adjust and get it to sit right, you should pull the bra, not the breast to manipulate it into place...carefully.
Your bra should fit snugly around and you should be able to fit one or two fingers under the band comfortably. If you are pulling down the back strap or pulling up on the shoulder straps throughout the day then the band size (the # part of your bra size) is too big. If the band can easily be pulled away from your body, or if the band rises up your back, then go down one in the band size. Raise your arms up and move them around a bit to make sure that the bra will fit snugly during regular activity. If your bra fits correctly, it should NOT be painful or uncomfortable to wear at anytime during the day.
If you are wearing an underwire bra, the wire that comes up between the breasts should lay flat (or as close as possible) to your breast bone. If you are wearing a bra with no underwire, you should have two separate breasts, not just a one big boob.
If the bra is a soft cup bra you shouldn't have any extra, gaping fabric. If the bra is a molded cup you shouldn't have any extra room in the cup. Your breast should completely fill the cup. If it is gaping and the band feels fine then go down in the cup size.
You don't want to be spilling out of the cup. Not from the top, bottom or sides. If the band feels fine then go up a cup size.
If have a small frame or are petite, and you find a bra that fits the band, and you don't quite fill the cup and you have already tried the next cup size down and it's still not quite right OR if the you have the "right" size, the band fits and you fill the cup, but the wire is poking your underarms, then try a Demi bra. A Demi style bra is different from a full coverage bra and has less wire, by about an inch or more.
Don't rush trying on bras. Really pay attention to how they fit and feel. Go bra shopping when you know you have the TIME for it. Many women have had to take up to an hour, or more, trying on several different sizes and styles to find the bra with the right fit and feel.
Here are some Web resources that offer guides for choosing the right bra and also offer many different styles:
- eplussizebras.com – lists dozens of sites. Something for everyone!
- Find the right bra for your teenager at KidsHealth.org - a guide especially for teen girls.
- For a comfortable bra, try Decent Exposures, sizes from from 30AAA to 60J, custom-made if needed, personalized service.
- CustomComfortByPaula.com Custom-Fit Bras that can fit a woman 28-52 A-LL and bigger. The bras do not have underwire and are EXTREMELY supportive. Paula Eisenberger.
- FigLeaves.com has a large selection in sizes.
- Bare Necessities - sizes 30AA to 52J. See all styles marked 60% to 69% off at BareNecessities.com.
- One of Oprah’s favorite bras is the Tisha bra and is sold through “Tupperware” type house parties from a company called Essential Bodywear. Many women are hosting parties as representatives and providing a much needed service of bra fittings and promoting great European type bras…adding an income source by giving them the training and product to have their own bra business. www.essentialbodywear.com
wow - this is super helpful...thanks
Posted by: Pammella | November 22, 2009 at 04:54 PM